I would like to start this blog with some valuable information for my readers. It has come to my attention that some of you thought that this website is just "plain text"; therefore, I would like to educate all of you that there is more to it. On the menu (on top of the page) you can find a small section with Facts & Figures, dedicated to random facts learned during my journey, and some figures about my travels. Further two sections are dedicated to photos, some of them nice, others authentic. If you click on the photo, you can find a short description. All the way to the right, you can find a map, where you can see where I am at the moment, and to which places I have travelled previously. You can simply press "ctrl" and then zoom in or out on that map to find more pins. I hope this short introduction helps you to discover and appreciate the work I put into this website ;)
Now let's get to the exciting part! As most of you know, I have spent about two months in Colombia, a country I have wanted to visit for a long time already. Luckily, thanks to the precious help of an Alumni (who graduated more than 50 years ago), I found another hotel that lets me stay for free, in return for my consultant services. More details about my second stop will follow later this year though. This post I would like to dedicate to my trips to the Caribbean coast, and the country's largest cities.
As probably only a few of you know, Colombia is the country with the second highest biodiversity in the world, just behind Brazil. In fact, per square kilometre, the country is the most biodiverse. There are more bird, amphibian, butterfly, and frog species here than anywhere else in the world. At the very beginning of my trip, my two friend and I had the chance to get a glimpse of this in the cute town of Minca, surrounded by lush jungle in the Sierra Nevada.
Steffi claims to have spotted a Tucan during our hike, and Svenja swears she has seen a monkey. Unfortunately, I cannot confirm any of these allegations but I am sure we were pretty close to them. Unfortunately, my wildlife stories end here, and to this point, I had no time to discover more of the country's natural richness. As a potential excuse, I could say that one-third of the whole country is actually completely isolated (reachable by boat on rivers) from the populated part, meaning that an area as large as Germany does not have any access roads and consists of pure nature. This also means that the neighbouring countries Brazil, Peru and Panama can not be reached by road. I hope that at a later stage of my journey, I will write a post called "Natural Wonder Colombia" or so, in which I will write about my experiences of whale watching on the Pacific coast, crocodile hunting in the Amazon or sand boarding in the Guajira Desert.
Culinary ups and downs
I have to admit upfront that after the culinary adventure I went through in Mexico, with a stopover in Italy, Spain and France, it was pretty much a slap to my face to arrive at Colombia's mostly simple, and fried cuisine. I know, it's not fair to say that, but in my opinion, I gave it many chances, and apart from some sincere highlights, I am still unconvinced. The regular food and menus remind me a lot of Cuba, with rice and fried plantain on every single plate. Sometimes some fried meat or chicken is added, and very often, a hot soup or stew can be found among the daily offers. Given Cuba's challenges in terms of food sourcing, I always understood why the simple range of dishes, however here, it gets me thinking about why the cuisine has not developed further. One of the main "fast food" options is the fried empanada, which I have tried on dozens of different joints. Unfortunately not even the freshest ones can compete with the baked Argentinian versions. Another key element of Colombian cuisine is the famous arepa, and these are indeed my personal highlights. Even the plain ones can satisfy a hungry eater with their warm, buttery and salty mix of tastes. A beautiful mix of bread and tortillas.
Despite the average offer, I was lucky enough to experience some rare but sincere, culinary highlights. Starting with a vegan cafe in Santa Marta, which served me an unbelievably tasty sandwich with fresh sourdough bread, following a unique experience in a Swiss bakery in Medellin. Their "Silsergipfel" was spectacular, maybe also because I haven't tasted Swiss bread for more than 6 months now. In Cali, I had an interesting mix of Syrian-Italian Fusion and in Bogota, I visited the famous Andres D.C restaurant with its unique decoration over five floors. More than 120 good-looking waiters and waitresses serve the 2300 guests (per night) mouthwatering beef and Colombian dishes, chosen from a menu with 90 pages. The absolute highlight was the restaurant Idilico in Medellin, in which I had the probably best-tasting food since my visit to Silo in London (thanks again Rafa).
One thing that surprised me was that the coffee culture is quite different to what I had expected. Being one of the largest coffee producers in the world, I was missing the high-quality coffee joints across the cities. Where would I find a nice, strong espresso like I would have in Rome? Some people told me, the best, most expensive coffee gets exported to exactly that country, leaving just the cheap quality behind. And in fact, different to Europe, where you find the best quality and speciality coffees in independent cafes, here I would satisfy my need for a small but strong coffee only in nationwide chains like Cafe Quindio, or Juan Valdez. I didn't really understand why until I moved to Armenia. More to that, on my next blog post ;)
Cultural & Historical Encounters
Did you know that it was impossible to safely travel across the country without the fear of guerilla attacks before the early 2000s? And that only when military convoys were provided, a family from Bogota, who could not afford flying, could visit their relatives in Medellin? Did you know that the very first tourism campaign, to attract foreign visitors only launched in 2006? In comparison, Thailand launched their first one in 1987.
Today, with reasonable caution expected in big cities, you can walk through the trendy neighbourhood of La Candelaria to get your ear pierced or some ink under your skin. You can admire the view over the 9 Mio. city from Monserrate and visit 9000-year-old, pre-Hispanic gold treasures. You can buy locally sourced gems in the emerald markets or simply stroll through the busy market streets in the city centre of Bogota.
In all the major cities, colonial architecture can be admired in the old towns, however, the most impressive one is to be found in Cartagena, the country's major tourist destination. The colourful streets are filled with live music and a buzzing atmosphere. Similar vibes can be found in Cali, the world's capital of Salsa, where locals and visitors can swing their hips in hundreds of Salsa bars, clubs and plazas across the city.
What once was considered as the most dangerous neighbourhood in the most dangerous city, the Communa 13 in Medellin is a great example of the country's development towards the better. Today, this colourful zone is one of the most visited areas in Medellin, attracting tourists with its graffiti tours and cultural institutions acting for change and a brighter future.
In the middle of the buzzing nightlife district of Poblado, one can find another "attractive" The Parque Ileras is known to be one of the largest places to meet and greet beautiful prostitutes in South America.link
If I can conclude my experiences, and the places that I visited while travelling through Colombia with one word: potential. And luckily enough, my friend ChatGPT agrees:
Colombia's diverse landscapes, spanning from the Amazon to the Andes and the Caribbean coast, present a rich tapestry for eco-tourism and adventure. The country's warm and resilient people, known for their positivity, contribute to a vibrant and inviting culture. Colombia's allure lies in its blend of natural wonders and welcoming spirit, making it an irresistible destination for travellers seeking immersive and uplifting experiences.
Of course, it makes sense that after decades of violence and a history marked by guerillas and drug trafficking, one might be hesitating to visit this place. This also explains why Colombia has some of the lowest numbers of foreign visitors in the whole of South America. But, as I did with Mexico, I encourage all of you to freshen up your Spanish, warm up your hips and visit this beautiful destination.
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